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With May giving us permission and Jill’s
birthday falling on a Saturday (the 10th), clearly the fates intended
something special. Le Relais restaurant in Great Falls is the current
stage for the masterful performances of chef Yannick Cam. We paid
a visit, and the verb “paid” definitely occupies a prominent
place in the sentence.
Our waiter, Driss, informed us that,
on this night, the chef featured a seven-course gourmet sampler,
with every course a “signature dish.” Driss said the
sampler was not a regular item on the menu, but had been added on
this night because it was “a bomb.” Driss smiled at
the word “bomb,” so we presumed bombs now were good.
Must have been the war. Who can keep track? Driss warned that only
twelve servings of the gourmet sampler were available. When a commodity
is so precious, clearly it’s of greater value.
Well, we had been food-free since breakfast
and I am now writing a food column for this newsletter and…
Basically, we managed to rationalize the preposterous cost and launch
into our dining odyssey.
We started with baguette (as presumably
required by French Law) and raisin bread spiced with fennel. To
whet our palates, we were given a lobster-salmon croquette that
to us seemed a tad salty
The actual meal began with a carpaccio
of house-smoked salmon with crème fraise and a dollop of
pastel caviar. Okay, “pastel” is not an official food-critic
term, but the colors harmonized. Friends will not be shocked to
learn that I chose the option of having wine paired with the meal.
The accompanying spirit proved to be a pleasant Sancerre sauvignon
blanc from the Loire Valley.
A remarkable cream of morel soup followed,
looking much like a moat around a small island that proved to be
a mousse of chicken fois gras sausage. Trimbach Riesling accompanied.
We stepped down from there to a roasted
lobster in sauterne and ginger butter. Driss had advertised claw
meat, but the slightly chewy texture said tail. On the other hand,
the white Burgundy made everything better.
The next course proved the high point
of the meal, a fois gras with plums in a raspberry “cotillion”
sauce with red wine reduction. Driss, with characteristic understatement,
called it the “best fois gras in the world.” Jill, not
a fois gras fan, said it was quite good “if you can forget
where it came from.” A Beaune Pinot Noir partnered well.
Quail stuffed with fois gras tasted
a tad salty and spicy for us, not to mention our naïve prejudice
against being confronted with the jut-legged carcass of a small
creature. Artichokes in truffle ravioli lifted us to another pinnacle—the
ultimate comfort food. The Italian Capezzana red wine had a complex
front with a disappointing lack of body.
A “gazpacho” of homemade
strawberry sorbet with chopped berries came next, followed by chocolate
mousse with feuille of orange peel and an orange-twirl cookie, all
accompanied by port.
The truly odd thing about the meal
was that Yannick Cam’s high points were so astonishing anything
less became disappointing. A strong negative for us was that, throughout
the meal, vegetables appeared only as tiny garnishes. No salads
or greens made an appearance.
We arrived at opening time and had
an excellent table, but twosomes arriving later had to endure tables
spaced too close together. Although the men’s room featured
piped-in classical pieces, no music could be heard in the restaurant.
By 8:00 PM, noise had climbed to a level we found unacceptable.
Once we’d finished the meal, Driss practiced gaze avoidance
in true European style until I stood on my chair and waved my arms
to signal we wanted the check. Fortunately, I was able to finance
the meal using a home equity loan.
The meal proved an enjoyable dining
experience from which we learned a lot, about both food and human
nature.
By the way, we did celebrate our 22nd
anniversary in Savannah and naturally had some excellent meals there.
The best was at 45 South, a meal we rated as worthy of two stars
on the Michelin scale—rare quality, indeed. Bistro Savannah
also proved excellent, although with far less ambience. Worst by
far was The Olde Pink House, with mediocre food and lackadaisical
service. A colleague said we’d have had better luck in their
pub. Our great regret is that we didn’t get to Elizabeth on
37th, a restaurant that, based on the reviews, might be the only
place in town in competition with 45 South.
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